Entries tagged with “Lager” from Malt & Barley Chronicles

A tech-focused news site offers advice to the English on which beverages to consume while watching the World Cup knockout match between England and Germany. Polite chortling ensues.

I enjoy schwarzbiers (literally, "black beers") -- the malty, slightly sweet cousins to standard pilseners. And though I didn't notice it on my previous visit, Berlin seems to be awash in this particular style. Eibauer (literally and nominatively) hails from Eibau, near the Czech and Polish borders.

Characteristics: Brownish-red color; medium carbonation and head that dissipates fairly quickly; light-to-medium body; consistent flavors of biscuit, malt, yeast, and a little sugar throughout with a little hoppy bite in the finish.

Minor Gripes: Lagers are steady but unexciting (unless hopped within an inch of their lives). In particular, the black lagers follow enough of a formula that distinguishing among them is a challenge.

Bottom Line: Schwarzbiers are a saving grace for those who generally shun yellow lagers and pilseners but find themselves in Germany. Though Kostritzer is my standard reference point, I would certainly choose Eibauer without hesitation.

Rating: 6 / 10

Lakefront seems to get the majority of the press (and love) when it comes to Milwaukee-area craft beers. Sprecher is rightfully known for its sodas, especially its root beer and the most biting (and tasty) ginger ale I've ever had. But Sprecher also makes some fine, complex beers, with its Black Bavarian at the head of the class.

Characteristics: Dark black-brown color that is completely opaque; heavy body with low to medium carbonation; opens smooth with a slight bubbly bite before moving into dense roasted chocolate malts with an espresso finish. There's also a hit-and-miss sugar element through the middle.

Minor Gripes: Black Bavarian doesn't have enough balance once it warms up a little -- I'm guessing it was engineered to be rich and flavorful when consumed ice-cold. And the 6% ABV sneaks up a little.

Bottom Line: Although Black Bavarian is a lager, it's closest in spirit and flavor to a deep porter as opposed to a schwarzbier. It's not a session beer, but it's a good change of pace and one that's not often available where I live these days.

Rating: 6 / 10

New Grist is another in the unfortunately small collection of gluten-free brews with something resembling decent distribution. And, befitting the substantial brewing heritage of its hometown (and its brewer, who is responsible for more traditional winners like Riverwest Stein and Wheat Monkey), New Grist tastes like a beer first and a GF beer second.

Characteristics: Pale yellow color, medium carbonation and head, starts with a little bite of carbonation and hops before settling in to a mild yeasty middle and then the tell-tale sorghum tanginess in the finish.

Minor Gripes: Best when served cold, just like the Leinie's or Stella it's replacing -- that's when the sorghum is least noticeable. Its distribution also seems to be spotty outside the standard Lakefront channels. Two weeks after we found it at a Whole Foods in NYC, it went out of stock with its slot in the case given away.

Bottom Line: New Grist is the GF beer for those who (A) miss drinking lagers, and (B) might enjoy multiple beverages in an evening. (I can't bring myself to use the classic Schaefer phrasing today.)  New Grist is also the first of the GF brews I've sampled that I would drink even if I weren't looking to reduce my gluten exposure. The Green's belgian-style offerings are good, but New Grist does a better job balancing out the endemic sorghum tanginess.

Rating: 5.75 / 10

I was equally scared and intrigued when I saw this sixpack in the cooler. I'm no fan of Abita's "Purple Haze" but their fine Turbodog and Restoration Ale gave me hope that the strawberries would be kept in check.

Characteristics: Clear yellow gold color; high carbonation; light-to-medium body; opens and finishes with some strawberry and yeast flavors, with a mellow slightly malty middle and few discernible hops. The strawberry is "real," not sugar-coated, and adds a definite tang.

Minor Gripes: There's less going on here than the flavors would suggest. The tangy finish turns dry over time, leaving one to wonder whether a beverage was actually consumed.

Bottom Line: The strawberry is a novel (and novelty) addition to what would otherwise be a decent lager falling between pilsner and amber. That novelty softens the pilsner's crisp bite without adding the malty depth of the amber -- truly betwixt and between. I wouldn't turn one down if offered, but I wouldn't exactly seek it out, either.

Rating: 5 / 10

This beer first caught my attention as a new offering from Magic Hat. It's kept my attention thanks to some quirky elements -- sugar beet extract! -- and to the quality refreshment it provides. And compared with other Magic Hat summer-ish efforts, Wacko is a clear winner.

Characteristics: Deep pink color (like golden cranberries); high carbonation; minimal head; light body; opens slightly sharp and hoppy, with a sugary (but not syrupy) malt middle and slightly dry fruity finish.

Minor Gripes: This is perhaps too thin a beer, with the carbonation hanging on all the way to the very bottom of the glass like a seltzer.

Bottom Line: Wacko is a well-balanced summer beer, just right for humid, nasty evenings on a stoop or back porch hoping for a breeze. The sugar beet element is amusing, while the flavor flows smoothly from crisp to clean. Color me impressed (yes, pun somewhat intended).

Rating: 6.25 / 10

A classic black and tan, of course, is Guinness poured over Bass. Attempting to bottle and store such a concoction is basically impossible. So the few bottled variations really should have a different name... yet I try them anyway. Yuengling's version is a mix of their porter and lager, while Matt's opts for stout and lager.

Characteristics: Dark, nearly opaque brown color; medium body and carbonation; hops and carbonation open into a sweet malt middle and a dry yeast/hop finish.

Minor Gripes: At most US beer temperatures (i.e. too cold), the malts don't come out to play so that there's just a dry, dull hop flavor.

Bottom Line: The pre-mixed Black and Tans are better summer drinks, when it's too hot and muggy for a proper porter or stout. They're certainly no substitute for a good schwarzbier, either. Saranac is perfectly drinkable, but given the choice, I'll take the Yuengling instead.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

My new resolution: "big bottles + wine stopper = good value" -- at least here in NYC, where there's a fierce beer tax, especially on six-packs. If this resolution doesn't work out, these Chronicles may move on to distilled malted barley beverages -- prices on that side of the shop are comparable to what I found in DC. Anyway, today we take a trip back to the heyday of carnival sideshows and exotic-feeling experiences.

Characteristics: Cloudy gold color, average carbonation and head, medium to heavy body, sharp citrus notes (accentuated by the carbonation) that give way to a round, malty, spicy middle (reminiscent of christmas ales) before powering back as the aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: The citrus and malt aren't really playing nicely together, instead fighting for prominence. A little more nutmeg or coriander, or a different hop selection, might have balanced out the flavors.

Bottom Line: If your taste in Belgian whites runs toward first-generation Celis White or Hoegaarden, then Albino Python is definitely worth checking out. For those on the fence about whites (or who see Blue Moon as a pinnacle of this style's evolution), this beer isn't going to work.

Rating: 5 / 10

My first review of a "local" beer since getting to NYC, where the insane tax rate means that decent six packs (even on sale) start close to $10.  I'm starting to think that it's better to buy the big (22-24 oz) bottles (and a wine bottle stopper) than to persist with the six pack.  But that's not a reflection on this particular brew, which presents different concerns.

Characteristics: Golden-reddish color, medium-to-high carbonation, light body, with strong citrus hops running roughshod over the toasted malt opening and then lingering on the tongue.

Minor Gripes: I'm simply not a fan of overblown hops, especially of the citrus variety.  This beer is dominated by its hops, though not as much as a comparable American pale ale.

Bottom Line: I wanted to like this beer.  It originates from a nice low-key town on Long Island, and the name "toasted lager" is appealing.  But the citrus finish just doesn't match the malty intentions of the name and coloring. A softer hop profile would allow the "toasted" flavor (and not just the color) come out.

Rating: 5 / 10

I rarely go for the "topical" or "timely" brew, but tonight this lovely large (22 ounce) bottle just called out to me from the cooler in my favorite local shop... and I am a better person for heeding that call.

Characteristics: Cloudy yellow gold color, light body with medium carbonation that dissipates quickly, crisp opening from the carbonation that yields to mellow, clean malty middle and a crisp, almost crabapple finish.

Minor Gripes: There are many evenings when one may not be interested in drinking 22 ounces, and Rogue's bottles do not feature resealable tops.  Distribute this one in a Grolsch-style bottle with the rubber seal top (or a traditional 12-ounce six pack), and you've got a real winner.

Bottom Line: Nice combination of crisp opening and closing tastes surrounding a warm malty middle.  I can't say that Kells strikes me as particularly "irish," but it's certainly a welcome diversion from the creamy stouts and red ales that dominate the Irish-American landscape (since there hasn't been enough demand to bring Kilkenny Cream Ale to the US).

Rating: 7 / 10

P.S. For those who feel compelled to participate in amateur hour this coming Monday, please show a little moderation... for those around you if not for your own sake.  Thanks.

I have always gone back and forth on Blackened Voodoo, as it seems to be rather sensitive to its environment (temperature, glassware, age, etc.) and there are few guarantees once you get the bottle in your hand.  My most recent six-pack met that expectation, but generally came out to the positive side. And raise a glass to the Minhas Craft Brewing Co (f/k/a Huber Brewing Company) of Monroe, Wisconsin, which has stepped up with contract brewing facilities to help keep Dixie alive while the original New Orleans facilities are still out of commission.

Characteristics: Dark reddish-brown color, decent head (quickly receding), light body that allows for some translucency, medium carbonation that underscores an intriguing battle between dry hops and sweet malts that continues all the way down.

Minor Gripes: Similar to its new stablemate Huber Bock, Blackened Voodoo will change from bottle to bottle, glass to glass, and the "sweet spot" is notoriously hard to replicate.

Bottom Line: For those who like schwarzbiers and other dark lagers, Blackened Voodoo is worth checking out.  Just treat it like an English ale (i.e. warm it up a little) to get the full flavor experience.  Or seek out Köstritzer at a good German restaurant or rathskeller and enjoy a consistently strong beverage.

Rating: 6 / 10 on a good day, 4.5 / 10 on a bad one.

With this review, I may be done with the Trader Joe's beers for a while.  I expect Octoberfests to vary widely, but this particular version just doesn't fit the bill.   A lager that behaves like an American Pale Ale isn't really necessary in my book.

Characteristics: Medium-copper color, light body, slightly stinging carbonation without any real head, sour hoppy tones dominate at start and finish over a yeasty middle.

Gripes: I've gotten headaches from drinking this beer, for no perceptible reason.  I'm also not a fan of the hop-heavy American pale ales, so your mileage may vary.

Bottom Line: Trader Joe's produces a dull and uninspired effort at a fest beer.  Even the mass-produced Sam Adams Octoberfest beats this one, never mind the heavyweight Hofbrau or other import variations.

Rating: 4 / 10

Everything that was disappointing about the Trinity Red is corrected here in the Gila Monster Amber. Another of my recent Trader Joe's finds, this beer brings a creative edge to the classic red/amber style.

Characteristics: Warm reddish gold color, thin body, medium carbonation, malty start and middle with spicy cinnamon notes and a slightly hoppy finish.

Minor Gripes: A cloying, sugary finish (like Belgian ales) starts to emerge as the beer warms to the upper limits of its range.

Bottom Line: The spicy cinnamon notes and sharp carbonated feel help this beer stand up to foods that would crush a lesser beer, but it's thin enough that you can drink more than one in a sitting. For a bargain "micro," that's high praise.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

One of the classic lagers of Bavaria, I first experienced Hofbrau at "The Great Beer Palace" (R.I.P.) on the north side of Chicago back in 1998 when I was still primarily a Celis White devotee.  I haven't ever been to the Hofbrauhaus (or anywhere else in Germany for that matter), though I will likely stop by one of its US outposts the next time I'm in Milwaukee.

Characteristics: Rich clear gold color, light body, clean and slightly bitter (but not hoppy) taste with perhaps a little caramel in the finish.

Minor Gripes: There isn't much of a "flavor" to be moderated by the bitterness -- that bite hits so quickly that the underlying malt hardly has a chance to get through.

Bottom Line: Not as sharp or crisp as the Czech pilseners, but still a substantial and worthy alternative to any "yellow" American macrobrew (and quite a few of the micros as well).

Rating: 6 / 10

When I first tried to review this beer, I was sampling the Otter Creek Amber as well ... and I couldn't really keep the two straight.  That's not a bad sign -- just an observation.

Characteristics:  Orangey-amber color, low carbonation, light-to-medium body, toast and caramel malty flavors with a slightly dry start.

Minor Gripes:  Some hoppiness starts to come out as it warms, as does a slightly curdled milk note.  (No, I don't put milk in my pint glasses, so there's no risk of cross-contamination.)

Bottom Line: A decent, middle-of-the-road beer.  I prefer the Otter Creek, but there's also a freshness factor lurking in the back of my mind.

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Beer #2 I brought back from my recent roadtrip to North Carolina... and unfortunately not as solid as the Black Radish.  As noted recently, weissbiers really need to be fresh... and this one was not in the samples I got (two six-packs from the last contract-brewed batch).

Characteristics: Cloudy dirty gold color with a minimal head (even after spinning the bottle), light-to-medium body, watery start with a dominant citrus middle and slightly sweet finish.

Minor Gripes: As with nearly all non-German weissbiers (but not the Belgian-style witbiers), this would be a far better beer when fresh.  It also lacks some of the yeastiness I want from a weiss.

Bottom Line: Worth trying if you're on the Outer Banks some time... but it's not hardy enough to travel well assuming the Weeping Radish gang works out their new distro game.

Rating: 5 / 10

The Weeping Radish is a German restaurant in the town of Manteo on Roanoke Island, NC.  It's also a reference to a garnish / snack served in Bavaria, where a radish is sliced and salted, and the water wicking out of the radish looks like tears.

Of the various styles brewed by Weeping Radish, my favorite is the Black Radish -- a Munich-style dunkel lager.  More depth than a schwarzbier, but lighter than many brown ales, and well worth the effort to track it down (see below).

Characteristics: Dark reddish brown color, light-to-medium body, light carbonation, roasted malt dominance with caramel throughout and a slightly hoppy finish that gets chocolatey as the beer comes closer to room temperature.

Minor Gripes: Somewhat inconsistent from beer to beer -- though that may have more to do with the state of contract brewing than the recipe behind this beer.

Bottom Line: A tasty brew well-suited for crisp fall days. 

Sadly, distribution for Weeping Radish beers is currently non-existent.  The owners got tired of the contract brewing (in locations like Baltimore) and decided to expand their own brewery...with the side effect of losing access to easy bottling and the hallowed "three-tier" distribution system.  They're planning to do some mail-order and the standard in-house growlers, but that's just not the same as access in the local package store.

Rating: 6.5 / 10

The (in)famous beer that can't use its own name here in the U.S.,* Czechvar is everything that Pilsner Urquell wants to be -- rich yet refreshing, smooth but tangy, "yellow" but flavorful.  Granted, Pilsner Urquell is a good beer, but it's often a little flat and skunky -- maybe SAB Miller needs to start brewing it in Milwaukee.

Characteristics: Warm, clear golden color, light body, crisp opening with a slighty toasted middle and hoppy, tangy finish.

Minor Gripes: None, except that it's a yellow lager -- meaning it can really only hold my attention in the summer.

Bottom Line: This is perhaps the finest traditional lager I've ever had -- with the disclaimer that I haven't been to central Europe to sample any at the source.

Rating: 7.25 / 10

Sharpness (via carbonation) and yeastiness (of course) dominate this particular variation on the venerable hefeweisse.  It's certainly a passable summer beer, but the body is perhaps a little heavy for the humidity of a Washington, DC summer.

Characteristics: Cloudy gold color, heavy body, high carbonation, yeasty / smoky finish on a sharp citrusy start.

Minor Gripes:  This beer approaches porter-weight instead of staying in the pils/amber range -- perhaps it's the yeast (and my insistence on spinning the bottle to get all the yeast out).

Bottom Line: A decent if not spectacular variation.  Certainly worth another try sometime before the end of the summer.  Also, you may want to check out the recent NYTimes article (free reg.) for the wine-snobby run at the topic

Rating: 5.5 / 10

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