Entries tagged with “Ale” from Malt & Barley Chronicles

WAIT, WAIT, THIS CAN'T BE!!!!

Yes, the Chronicles have finally found an American-made pale ale worth recommending.  (Long-time readers may know that the Chronicles have a major aversion to over-hopped ales, particularly those using citrusy hops.)  Perhaps the extra yeast, or the fact that it originates in Vermont instead of the West Coast, makes a difference. But I can safely say that Long Trail's Unfiltered IPA has earned a place in my rotation.

Characteristics: Deep gold color, varying from translucent to cloudy (depending on amount of yeast stirred from bottle); medium body, light-to-medium carbonation; tart orange and vanilla flavors at the beginning are moderated by yeast into a grapefruit finish.

Minor Gripes: Since this isn't an English bitter, the hoppy finish is still present and sometimes overwhelming (depending on temperature). And it's unclear (pun intended) whether one is supposed to spin the yeast out of the bottle (like weissbiers) or not. I tried it both ways and preferred the yeasty version.

Bottom Line: Make no mistake, this is an American IPA. But it's a mellow version, eschewing the mega-hop arms race for drinkability and a mellowness that might skew closer to the original IPA (where hops were a preservative, not just an agent for bitterness). And in an age where Sierra Nevada is supposedly on the low end of the IPA spectrum, Long Trail's Unfiltered IPA is nearly unimaginable.  

Rating: 6.25 / 10

A tech-focused news site offers advice to the English on which beverages to consume while watching the World Cup knockout match between England and Germany. Polite chortling ensues.

I am a ginger fanatic. I also have an interest in creative East Asian beers -- I enjoy sushi and pad thai too much to suffer with pale yellow lagers for the rest of my life. So when I spotted a ginger-brewed beverage in the Hitachino Nest stable, that was pretty much an automatic purchase.

Characteristics: Cloudy reddish-brown color; light-to-moderate carbonation with average head; medium body; mildly sweet opening sets the stage for the ginger to build across a yeasty-biscuit middle for an almost peppery finish. It takes time for the ginger to emerge.

Minor Gripes: Depending on your tolerance for yeast, be careful when pouring since there's a sediment in the bottle. And definitely do not drink this one straight out of the bottle, straight out of the refrigerator... this is probably best consumed from a snifter/tulip glass, approaching room temperature.

Bottom Line: A noble experiment that doesn't quite reach the finish line. I'd like to try this with 50% more ginger in the mash, so that the bite is there at a cooler temperature -- but I also eat pickled ginger without sushi.  And I do wonder about quality control in the bottling and labeling at Kiuchi -- the first bottle I tasted was so bland that I may not have gotten the right beverage. (That's happened to me before with Hitachino Nest. I loved the first couple Red Rice Ales I tried -- reddish, medium-bodied experiments on the amber ale theme... but later bottles were thin, cloudy, straw-yellow, and utterly lacking in flavor.)

Rating: 5 / 10

Courtesy of old friends Maura.com (currently guesting at The Awl) and Dan R.: news of a Moog-styled beer. If I collected bottles or analog synths, this one would most definitely be a keeper.  Instead, I will rely on my friends in the Carolinas to hang on to a six-pack for me until I make a southern roadtrip in a few months...

The Oatmeal demonstrates how printed infotainment should be done... this time with a handy guide to beer.

(Proper reviews will resume soon, including my Oct. 2009 tasting sessions in Portland, OR and the winter 2010 business trip to Berlin.)

One of my few regrets about living in New York City is the relative scarcity of certain breweries... and New Belgium is prominent on that list.  Fat Tire is their best known brew, and 1554 Black Ale is my favorite of their everyday listings.  But they've recently launched the "Lips of Faith" series of 22 ounce concoctions that are serious, special beers. And on my maiden voyage to the storied BevMo, I decided to grab two different bottles and then retire to my hotel room for a quiet evening of tasting.

Characteristics: Brown and slightly cloudy with red highlights; light-to-medium body and carbonation; intense sourness from start to finish, in the crab-apple and balsamic vinegar categories, with minimal discernable hops or malt traits.

Minor Gripes: The 22-ounce bottle doesn't always lend itself to a careful pour -- so the yeast that settled in the bottom of the bottle can come rushing out at the end. And there doesn't seem to be any reason for a 6% ABV.

Bottom Line: Sadly, I feel defeated by this beer. I've enjoyed Flanders Sour Ales before, but La Folie seems to ask (and answer) the question of whether it's possible to be too sour. Maybe they could have skipped that last year of fermentation...

Rating: 4.75 / 10

Custom-brewed for Pianos, a small rock club on the Lower East Side (NYC) that once was a piano showroom and repair shop... this is a dense Belgian-style ale with a whole lot going on.

Characteristics: Cloudy copper color, medium carbonation and head, medium-to-heavy body, grapefruit flavors (but not Cascade hops!) dominate over a sweet, slightly malty middle section before transmogrifying into an American Pale Ale (a/k/a hop-infested) finish.

Minor Gripes: For the weight of this beer, grapefruit isn't necessarily the balancing note I would have chosen. Tough to pair with anything but a lighter weight American Pale Ale. Also hints at a high ABV content that couldn't be confirmed or denied from the tap handle.

Bottom Line: Certainly a creative beer, but not always successful. Grapefruit burps and that late hoppy shift are not welcome. Worth sampling, though, especially if you're looking for a heavyweight counterpart to all those brews trying to outperform Sierra Nevada.

Rating: 4.5 / 10 (before any bonus points for creativity and local focus)

I was fortunate enough to visit Shipyard a couple summers back -- good people with the goal of making good beers and an obsession with Fuggles hops. Their flagship brew is a good one, but the flavored offerings don't always make the grade.

Characteristics: Warm-gold color; light body with light-to-medium carbonation; a consistent straw-grass flavor dominates throughout, with some yeast and a slight squashy taste at the finish.

Not-so-minor Gripes: Pumpkinhead is extremely thin and carries zero flavor when cold -- it starts out somewhere around a light American lager. It opens up a little over time, but there's ultimately not much to find. The progression or evolution in the flavor is very slight over the course of a swallow or a full glass.

Bottom Line: I prefer my pumpkin beers to be a little heftier, with cinnamon and nutmeg hints (though not as thick as a winter ale). Pumpkinhead is too thin, like a Pale Ale that trades out some hops and adds some raw pumpkin to the mash tun. It's better than the Shipyard Blueberry (which was too sweet for me) but not the pumpkin brew I'd recommend.

Rating: 4 / 10

A few weeks back, I was doing a little people-watching at the Oyster Bar on a Friday early evening.  I can't think of many places in NYC that got a bigger boost from the series "Mad Men." And along with a gorgeous plate of fried oysters, I had the chance to sample a couple pints of this lovely brew that adds some rye to the barley malt.

Characteristics: Cloudy amber color; medium body; low carbonation; starts with a sharp hoppy note, mellows into a biscuity, yeasty middle and finishes slightly sweet.

Minor Gripes: Balance is a problem. The hops keeps the sweetness in check only sometimes, but the biscuity elements can be overpowered by either of the two.

Bottom Line: With bivalves, Righteous Rye is magical. The hoppy opening cuts through the brine, while the malty rye draws out the depth of the bellies. In a stand-alone setting, the lack of balance and consistency is a bit of a liability. A complex beer worth checking out for amber ale fans.

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Second of the Green's family of gluten-free Belgian ales, as I review from light to dark. The Discovery Amber Ale successfully evokes Irish and English ambers and pale ales through its mix of unconventional grains.

Characteristics: Reddish brown and cloudy color (from secondary fermentation in bottle); high carbonation; medium body; tangy and tart flavors (almost granny smith apple) throughout dominate over some classic amber malt notes, leading to a hoppy finish.

Minor Gripes: The tangy nature of the sorghum and millet can be distracting at times, particularly for those who don't routinely drink GF beer. The 6% ABV does show up in the tartness and is not always welcome.

Bottom Line: Discovery Amber is at the strong end of the amber family in all respects. The flavors run fairly close to its stablemate, the Dubbel Dark Endeavor. But for those who can no longer enjoy ambers, lighter browns, or Belgian-style ales, this member of the Green's family is a welcome find.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

Finally, an American Pale Ale that doesn't slaughter my taste buds by being overhopped. Though maybe the black pepper is also providing the necessary balance... however it works, color me impressed.

Characteristics: warm, cloudy amber color; medium carbonation, medium body; opens with a hoppy edge (assisted by carbonation), mellows in the middle with a little malt (wandering between biscuit and caramel), and winds up in a long and strong black pepper finish.

Minor Gripes: As with many complex beers, there's a delicate spot where all the flavors open up... and it passes quickly.

Bottom Line: My preference for malt over hops is well-documented on these pages. But Knot Stock is the rare American Pale Ale that I would enjoy as a regular part of the rotation.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

I thought I'd reviewed this one ages ago, but the site doesn't show any entry. Pennant Ale '55 is a tribute to the old Brooklyn Dodgers and their first (and only) World Series triumph, and a perfectly reasonable entry in the Brooklyn Brewery stable.

Characteristics: Translucent copper-amber color, thin body, mild-to-average carbonation, some hoppiness in the opening (along with the carbonation) that gives way to a yeasty, biscuity malt middle and slightly sweet finish, especially when allowed to warm slightly from standard refrigerated storage.

Minor Gripes: Pennant Ale '55 has a tendency to get a little bitter in the middle and finish, as if it's pretending to be an American Pale Ale instead of a more rounded amber.

Bottom Line: Like a reliable fourth starter in a pitching rotation, it doesn't have a knockout quality but it keeps the team in the game. Nothing special, nothing terrible -- just a nice middle-of-the-road amber.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

Answer: Millet, rice, buckwheat, sorghum.

Question: How do you brew a gluten-free beer?

My wife was diagnosed with celiac disease at the end of last year. Celiac is an auto-immune condition that responds to to the consumption of gluten, a protein that naturally occurs in wheat, rye, and barley. That means she (and others with celiac and related conditions) can't drink the vast majority of beers and ales. Some brewers have begun experimenting with gluten-free grains, and the Green's brand out of Belgium is doing its damnedest to replicate the browns, blondes, and dubbels that the non-afflicted crave and enjoy.

Characteristics: Hazy gold color, medium carbonation that dissipates quickly, light body, sour mix opening and middle with a citrusy grapefruit finish.

Minor Gripes: The body needs to be heavier, perhaps with a little more sweetness, to match the blonde ale tradition and to support the 8.5% ABV.

Bottom Line: As gluten-free beer goes, Green's makes the best I've sampled. It's certainly superior to A-B's wretched Redbridge sorghum beverage. But I would recommend the brown or dubbel over the blonde.

Rating: 5 / 10

Cain's is an old time local brewery resurrected in more recent times by the Dusanj family. And while I am sure the original style was not made with California raisins, this beer is still a tasty diversion.

Characteristics: Yellow-amber color, minimal head and low carbonation, medium body, starts a little flat and builds into a restrained fruit middle with that english Fuggles hop finish and aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: I was expecting a fruit cake spiciness that never showed up.  A hint or coriander or nutmeg would add depth in the middle and finish, though I wouldn't want this to reach winter ale status.

Bottom Line: Treat this like a proper English bitter and let it warm a little, and it becomes more enjoyable. Just don't expect a real strong raisin element (based on the one I sampled).

Rating: 5.5 / 10

This creamy, nitrogenated cousin of Smithwick's is available only in Europe and only on tap, which is a total shame. I first tasted (and loved) it in Ireland about 3 years ago but was pleasantly reacquainted while in Helsinki a few months back.

Characteristics: Reddish-brown color topped by a rich nitrogenated head with that classic rising effect as poured; light to medium body; low carbonation; malty, slightly toasted/biscuity flavors dominate with a slight Fuggles hoppy bite in the finish to keep it from getting too sweet.

Minor Gripes: Lack of availability in the US, and variability in the hoppiness (though not as much as Smithwick's, which sometimes presents as a fecking competitor to Sierra Nevada).

Bottom Line: For now, Kilkenny's is a lovely bonus for Americans making it over to Europe. I think it could do well stateside in the widget cans, but I also trust that Diageo has done its market research. Given a choice, I will always take Kilkenny over Smithwick's -- the smoothness of the nitro-pour really does make a difference in the flavor and drinkability. I'd also take Kilkenny over Boddington's, as the latter seems to have hardly any taste of late.

Rating: 7.25 / 10

I'm always intrigued and frightened by winter ales. Intrigued by the idea of cinnamon and nutmeg and ginger and cloves, like a mulled wine or cider, but frightened by the attendant malt sugars that overwhelm the rest of the brew. Blue Point's entry for 2008-09 gets the job done by dialing back some of the spices and adding more hops to maintain balance.

Characteristics: Deep amber-brown color, low-to-medium carbonation, medium body, flat malty start that leads to a battle of citrusy hops and a mix of spices -- mostly coriander and nutmeg -- that continues through the finish and aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: I'd prefer for the spices to win a little more definitively. Fans of American Pale Ales, or those who dislike winter ales but are forced to consume this one, may hold different opinions.

Bottom Line: As winter ales go, Blue Point's is one of the most drinkable. I wouldn't buy it more than once a year, but that's typically enough for winter ale season (unlike pumpkin ales, which I would sample all year round).

Rating: 6 / 10

McSorley's Ale House is one of the contenders for the oldest bar in New York City, and a place of some repute for many reasons. One of the more positive reasons is that they serve exactly two beers -- "light ale" and "dark ale." And I'm guessing that this bottled version is the dark ale. As a side note, the actual brewing of McSorley's started as a neighborhood affair but has passed hands through various, increasingly larger shops until falling into the hands of Pabst Brewing (whose broad ownership of regional brands is a story for another time).

Characteristics: Warm copper color, medium carbonation and minimal head, light body, with smooth malty flavors throughout that end a little on the sugary side.

Minor Gripes: There's not really much of a "there" there. Seriously, McSorley's is fine going down but not entirely memorable after the fact.

Bottom Line: McSorley's Ale is a fine choice for those on the Killian's side of the Irish red/amber spectrum (as opposed to the Smithwick's, more heavily hopped, end). I wouldn't go out of my way for it, but I won't run from it, either

Rating: 5.5 / 10

The Scots have done it again.  I've already talked about how much I love scotch ale, particularly McEwan's.  I have not reviewed the Kelpie seaweed ale because I had it only once... but it was fantastic.  And now there's the happy accident of a beer aged in bourbon oak casks... amen.

Characteristics: Clear orange-gold color, medium carbonation, light-to-medium body, and a slightly nutty clean taste (reminiscent of Bass Ale) punctuated by the bubbles and then mellowing out through vanilla flavors to a bourbon-tinged finish.

Minor Gripes: The aftertaste can run a bit sweet -- when I burped, it smelled like a Beam & Coke. And it's deceptively strong, at 6.6% ABV (compared with the standard 5% ABV).

Bottom Line: This is best seen as a sipping beer, and a fantastic brew for a lazy evening near a fireplace. I'm not a big fan of bourbon, but I can certainly endorse this use of bourbon casks.

Rating: 8 / 10

I've made my way to a new city, but the same cruddy summer weather followed me here a couple weeks back.  And that means it's time for crisp beers that are best consumed cold and quickly.  Harpoon's not-so-imaginatively-named "Summer Beer" is its adaptation of the kolsch style most often associated with Cologne/Koln, Germany.

Characteristics: Light golden yellow color, slightly above-average carbonation, thin body, and a flavor that starts with sharp, dry hops (accentuated by the carbonation) and trails off to a slightly malty sweetness.  Easily among the lightest ales I've ever sampled.

Minor Gripes: The variability in the flavor can be somewhat frustrating, especially when the hops and malt get out of synch.  And like any kolsch, this beer is too thin for any part of the year other than muggy summer afternoons and evenings. And now that the weather has broken in NYC (evenings in the low 60s!), this beer is suddenly out of season (at least for another week).

Bottom Line: When it gets muggy and nasty and you can't walk three steps without breaking a sweat, Harpoon Summer Beer is an excellent option.

Rating: 6 / 10  

I'd heard about Southampton's brews for some time, mostly from the period "Beers of the Times" feature in the New York Times.  As a fitting preparation for my upcoming move to NYC, I recently managed to score a six-pack of the Double White Ale.

Characteristics: Pale cloudy yellow (when poured properly), full head that dissipates promptly into medium carbonation, medium to heavy body, with a mild yeasty flavor tempered by spices and hops and an orangey tail.

Minor Gripes: There's no warning that you need to swirl the end of the bottle when pouring (or that you should never drink straight from the bottle).  Without the settled spices and yeast, the beer is thin and overly hoppy and dominated by alcohol. And when poured right, you'll never know that

Bottom Line: For those who like the Belgian-style witbiers, the Double White is a tasty addition to the tradition.  It's certainly heavier than the old-school Celis / current Hoegaarden versions, but no less tasty.

Rating: 6 / 10

Two separate beers, but so close in overall impressions that I'm going to lump them into a single review.  And as much as I like Smuttynose's other brews, I am not particularly excited by these beers. In other words, I need to stick to mostly malty beers.

Characteristics: Shoals has a rich reddish gold color, light-to-medium carbonation and body, and a taste that starts with an oyster cracker or stale biscuit taste that is quickly dominated by citrusy hops through the aftertaste.  The IPA is yellow-gold and lighter-bodied, starting with a sharp carbonated moment but mellowing out into a flat bitterness.

Minor Gripes: The Shoals is almost like drinking a raw Arnie Palmer (lemon juice and unsweetened tea), while the IPA needs a little more malt for balance.

Bottom Line: When it's all about the hops, I just lose interest... and that's exactly what these two beers present -- two different, but equally dominant, hop experiences. 

Rating: Shoals -- 4.5 / 10; IPA -- 5 / 10

So much for being done with Trader Joe's (as I had recently promised) ... but I find it easiest to buy my beer as part of my weekly groceries.  I think I really am done, at least with any further reviews, after yet another middle-of-the-road amber.

Characteristics: Pale copper color, medium carbonation and head, thin body, sharp bubbly start with a burnt toast middle and sugary finish.

Minor Gripes: Honestly, there's nothing that really stands out about this beer.  It's not too bland, not too sharp, just present and somewhat accounted for.

Bottom Line: Jumping Cow is one of those beers that's fine to have in the fridge from time to time.  It won't offend anyone, but it won't surprise them either.

Rating: 5 / 10

I should dock some points for the "Established 1703, Re-established 1995" game -- making a complete and utter mockery of institutions that have legitimate histories.  Bootstrapping from a colonial Annapolis brewery to a contemporary outfit in Dover, Delaware is a cheap shot of sorts, unless there's a family connection that would be outlined on the company's web site (instead under construction as of this writing). But the beer itself mostly overcomes this negative start to establish itself as a pretty reasonable choice when a lighter beer is called for.

Characteristics: Translucent copper-red color, light carbonation and head, thin body, slightly hoppy opening that quickly resolves to a mild roasted malt middle and a clean finish.

Minor Gripes: Copperhead Ale is like an English bitter in how it goes down a little too quickly. Unfortunately, it lacks enough body and flavor to hold up well over a full 12-ounce serving.

Bottom Line: A slightly above-average amber that might see its recipe evolve into something more memorable.

Rating: 5.75 / 10

Another of Brooklyn's seasonal offerings, this beverage (even more so than Buffalo Bill's Pumpkin) has restored my faith in pumpkin beers.  Post Road carries its excellent, savory blend of pumpkin, nutmeg, and cinnamon flavors consistently from the first (perhaps too cold) sip to the last (approaching room temperature) without being overpowering or getting syrupy. With prime pumpkin season now over, I won't be sampling any more varieties until next fall (anything still in the stores will be suspect at best).

Characteristics: Rich copper color (tending toward brown), light-to-medium carbonation with a small head, medium body, smooth mix of savory pumpkin, cinnamon, and nutmeg that crests just as you finish each sip. 

Minor Gripes: The season of availability is just a little too short... I was only able to score one six-pack before my local store ran out.

Bottom Line: This beer manages to replicate the experience of eating a great pumpkin pie filling without being filling.  That's quite a feat, and it will keep me coming back to this brew for seasons to come.

Rating: 7.5 / 10

Another beer available only at Trader Joe's in my experience, and perhaps one best left there. Given a choice between this beer and a true pilsener, I'd go yellow (which is a rarity for me).

Characteristics: Warm amber red color, light carbonation, minimal head, light-to-medium body, slightly sharp opening moves into slightly malty, slightly yeasty spaces with a tangy finish.

Minor Gripes: There's a sour finish in the yeast -- an off-note that doesn't fit with the overall middle-of-the-palate approach.

Bottom Line: Drinkable, decent, but nothing special. I probably couldn't distinguish Trinity Red from Leinie's Red in a blind test, and that means it's definitely in the middle of the road at best.

Rating: 4.5 / 10

This probably isn't the most objective or controlled test I've ever done, since it comes on the heels of a Shipyard Brewery tour (and tasting) in Portland, consisted only of two drafts in one sitting (I usually like to try a beer a couple times), and was accompanied in part by some (relatively mild) hummus.  But I'd like to have the Bar Harbor again at home... so that should count for something.

Characteristics: Rich brownish amber color, medium carbonation but light head, medium body with some depth, runs mostly amber and slightly yeasty (like a Smithwick's) but finishes dry and hoppy.

Minor Gripes: That hoppy finish slides from dry to bitter as the ale approaches room temperature.  It's  similar to the core hoppiness of the Shipyard ales but not really necessary with this one.

Bottom Line: I'm not sure when "real" became synonymous with "brown, " but I'm not really complaining about the results in this case.

Rating:  6 / 10

I've read plenty about and seen plenty of Dogfish Head's brews, as they seem to be the most highly-regarded local brewery here in the Washington, DC area. I've stayed away for the most part, however, since I'm not a huge fan of American pale ales... and I'm not sure that this particular experience will change my approach in the future.

Characteristics: Dark, nearly opaque brown color, medium-to-heavy body with light carbonation and minimal head, opens with an alcohol burn and hoppy bite that morphs into a porter/coffee taste, and ends on the burnt side of malt with a very dry effect.

(Not So) Minor Gripes: First, there's no need for this beer to be 7.2% ABV. Depending on the temperature, the alcohol taste can overpower everything else going on with this beer.  Second, the dry finish is disconcerting and difficult -- it's almost like there's silica gel somewhere in the mix.

Bottom Line: Although this is a novel take on the venerable brown ale, it just doesn't work for me thanks to the overloaded alcohol content and domineering hop profile.  It's too bad, since I want to support local breweries like Dogfish Head, but I figure there are plenty of others who will pick up the slack for me.

Rating: 3.75 / 10

A collection of items tangentially related to the Chronicles that I've been gathering for some time ...

• Courtesy of the BBC: Irish pubs are dying out in the homeland.  And the reasons cited for the decline?  The nationwide workplace smoking ban and stricter enforcement of drunk driving laws.  Talk about unintended consequences...


• Courtesy of BoingBoing: History Magazine's article on mealtimes throughout the ages. Note the quality "nuntion" or "nuncheon" offered to peasants in Shakespeare's time...


• Various sources report on the fallout from the unfortunate death of St. Louis Cardinals pitcher Josh Hancock.  The Milwaukee Brewers decided to uphold the principle of personal responsibility by continuing to permit alcohol in the clubhouse -- not necessarily surprising, but still notable when the Cardinals, owned by the Busch family, took the opposite action.


• Next time I'm back in Milwaukee, I need to stop by the Comet Cafe for a Wisconsin Cow Bomb (scroll down almost to the bottom).  Guinness, Jameson's, chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream.  Sounds like a fantastic dessert to me, but then again I prefer to chase my Jameson's shots with Guinness anyway.


• Eric Asimov of The New York Times continues his occasional substitution of beer for wine in  the weekly "[Beverages] Of The Times" feature... recently hitting brown ales and bocks.  I still think the reviews run a bit to the snooty side, but at least he's making an effort to level the playing field.


• Staying with the NYT, the Travel desk offers a lovely vacation idea of touring Germany looking for the unique regional beers.  I take exception to only one remark, that of never finding rauchbiers again outside of Bamberg.  I've sampled the Schlenkerla Rauchbier a few times from my local specialty store (in a half-liter bottle) and enjoyed it greatly, even agreeing in large part with the reviewer's take.


• From Gizmodo, a heads-up that the annual Crumpler "Beers for Bags" event is coming soon to New York and Toronto. If you're in the market for some kind of messenger bag, this might be a fun way to pick one up.
  


• Finally, courtesy of Gridskipper: As if we need another reason to love Seattle, one of its state legislators has proposed allowing dogs in the bars. I'm all in favor of this change, having spent a fair amount of time on outdoor terraces and even low-key dog-friendly bars in Milwaukee.

Like many regional breweries, Bell's is sometimes hit-or-miss.  The Oberon wheat ale has remained fairly consistent over the past 5-6 years, however -- always thicker than it looks, working a subtle line between hop-overload and red/amber roasty notes.

Characteristics: Cloudy, rich gold color, average head and carbonation, medium-to-heavy body, moderate bitterness carries through from start to finish with a slight citrus finish and a grainy feel on the tongue.

Minor Gripes: This ale is VERY temperature-dependent -- too cold and it's just a heavy yellow lager, too warm and it's literally liquid bread.  The sweet spot is very hard to find, especially in a bar.

Bottom Line: Bell's Oberon is a good beer if you like weiss beers and are willing to experiment a little on the heavier side.  At the same time, with summer rapidly approaching in Washington, Oberon season is nearly over (head out to Michigan or Wisconsin to enjoy it for a few more months).

Rating: 5.75 / 10

It's been a while since I came across a beer that really disappointed me... but Yuengling has done it this time.  Pale in color, pale in flavor, and yet not a proper "pale ale" of either the American or India variety.

Characteristics: Gold color, average to high carbonation, light body, hoppy drive with some sharp off-notes that grab the back of the throat in the finish.

Gripes: There needs to be something to balance the hops -- the citrus of a Sierra Nevada, the body of a Samuel Smith -- but here there's nothing but more hops.

Bottom Line: This is a "flavorful" beer for those who regularly enjoy Miller High Life.  Otherwise, steer clear of Lord Chesterfield and stick to the Yuengling Lager (a nice amber variety), Black and Tan (not the same, but still tasty), or Porter (a middleweight roaster).

Rating: 3.75 / 10

I've enjoyed this beer on many occasions but hadn't gotten around to reviewing it.  It's extremely drinkable as good browns tend to be -- smooth and flavorful and organic to boot.

Characteristics: Dark amber color, light to medium carbonation and a mild head, light body, starts with a hoppy moment and then settles into a malty/hoppy balance with the slightly roasted flavors taking over in the tail.

Minor Gripes: The maltiness can sometimes get cloying, though typically I've finished the beer before that happens.

Bottom Line: As I've noted before, the Wolaver's / Otter Creek crew are good people making good beers... if their distribution channels reach your area, do yourself a favor and try out the Brown or the Stout for sure.

Rating: 7/10

Finally, a Belgian blonde that doesn't disappoint. I was close to giving up on blonde ales after one too many sweet (Leffe), alcohol-burnt (La Chouffe), or fizzy (Delirium Tremens) variations thanks (in part) to inconsistent shipping, storage, and serving practices.  Grimbergen has restored at least some of my willingness to go back to the well.

Characteristics: Warm clear gold color, more than average carbonation with a simple head, light body, uniquely sour malty start with a smooth citrus finish that masks the 6.7% ABV.

Minor Gripes: I would indulge more often if this weren't a $12 six-pack.  Otherwise, no real complaints.

Bottom Line: This ale is a winning study in complementary contrasts.  The balance of citrus and malt makes this blonde ale a must-try for anyone who's got a bit of a sour tooth. 

Rating: 7.5 / 10

"Hanami" is a Japanese word that is used to describe the viewing of the cherry blossoms in the early spring -- something that borders on an obsession here in Washington.  Despite my overall respect for Smuttynose, I was skeptical when I first tried this beer.  I've had mixed experiences with the kriekbiers, and Sam Adams converted their Cherry Wheat into a dreadfully sweet (even syrupy) mess of a beer.  And on first sample, this came across as a pale, wan beer that had very little going for it -- I was prepared to pass on it entirely.  I went back to the well a few weeks later, however, and was pleasantly surprised. 

Characteristics: Rich amber color, average carbonation, moderate head, light-to-medium body, starts almost like a plain yellow lager but then a tart, sharp cherry flavor slides in and takes over through the finish.

Minor Gripes: This is truly a beer inspired by Europe -- you have to bring it back close to room temperature before the tart cherry emerges.  But if it warms up too much (and the carbonation dissipates), it can be like drinking straight cherry juice.

Bottom Line: A creative, flavorful, refreshing beer that may be just a little too tempermental for its own good.  I'm curious if there are any Japanese equivalents -- that would make for a nice contrast the next time I'm out for sushi.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

This beer is exactly what I want in a bitter -- smooth, easy-drinking, something I can enjoy all evening long.  Thanks to the over-eager guests at a friend's Super Bowl party, I recently came into possession of a full case of this lovely brew.

Characteristics: Warm amber-red and slightly cloudy, medium body with light carbonation, contrasting citrus and caramel flavors that do a little pas-de-deux across the tongue before the caramel wins out on the way down the hatch.

Minor Gripes: 1. I've run into a couple bottles that were over-carbonated (perhaps skunking out).  2. The caramel finish can sometimes be a little cloying -- but that goes away if you pour another glass and start the citrus all over again.

Bottom Line: An excellent beer that compares very favorably to what I understand a proper English ESB should be (as opposed to some over-hopped American expression like Redhook's signature brew). I'm now two-for-two with River Horse, and looking forward to their next non-yellow release.

Rating: 7 / 10

Perhaps I should call this edition "Press Your Luck"  (with apologies to the late Peter Tomarken and the Whammy).  After the Belgian Frostbite and Black Chocolate Stout, I decided to try another "winter beer."  Pyramid may be a fine brewery, but I'm still not having real success with their beers.  And now that I've been put to shame (no surprise) by the Hedonist Beer Jive holiday round-up (though he hasn't hit my selections yet), I will retreat from the "holiday ale" category and wait for Bock-season to kick in.

Characteristics: Deep brown-red color, light carbonation, medium body that gets heavier as it warms, starts with a hoppy bite and then goes through a brief roasted malty phase before the Belgian sugar element takes over.

Minor Gripes: There's an odd, uncomfortable sourness that emerges as this beer warms, beyond the sugar -- and sour isn't a taste I particularly want in my beer. 

Bottom Line: Neither the worst nor the best of the winter seasonals I've ever sampled.  Drink it cold and quickly unless you're ready for the sour and syrupy moments. 

Rating: 5 / 10

I first learned about River Horse this past winter at a friend's wedding.  The standard lager and pale ale were decent craft brews, but nothing that hinted directly at this beverage.  It's hardly fair to compare this dark Belgian ale to the more conventional over-spiced winter ale that gets syrupy after about ten minutes.

Characteristics: Dark brown (but still translucent), medium body and carbonation, and a progression of bittersweet chocolate (maybe coffee) and spices with that characteristic Belgian/abbey ale sweetness at the end.

Minor Gripes: That sweetness can be a little overbearing, though it varies with temperature... there's a spot where it all falls apart and then settles back into balance.

Bottom Line: This is a fantastic winter ale... well-balanced, flavorful, smooth.  Thankfully, I should be passing through central New Jersey at least once more before this batch runs out or goes stale.   

Rating: 7.25 / 10

After the Oktoberfests, my favorite beverage of the autumn is a hearty pumpkin ale.  Unfortunately, not everyone knows how to brew with fruit... the first pumpkin I tried this year was so bad that I didn't even review it.  Buffalo Bill's, however, does know something about fruit, as shown by their brilliant Orange Blossom Cream Ale.

Characteristics: Rich amber-brown color, medium body, medium-to-high carbonation, tangy amber start that mellows through the pumpkin and slight cinnamon flavor to a nutmegy finish.

Minor Gripes: Unfortunately for the average American beer drinker, the flavors really don't burst until this beer warms up a lot... definitely skip the frosted glass.  Also, the nutmeg sometimes resolves to a bitter aftertaste -- the pumpkin doesn't hold through the finish.

Bottom Line: Among the better pumpkin beers I've sampled, and perhaps the only where one can enjoy more than one in a sitting.

Rating: 6 / 10

I have yet to find a local (metro-DC) brewery I like enough to try all their beers, which is why I keep coming back to the Vermonters.  And it is the season to wander through the Oktoberfests, whether ale, lager, or weiss ...

Characteristics: Medium amber color, light to medium body and carbonation, minimal head, peppery bite masking malty flavors and adding more than a touch of bitterness.

Minor Gripes: I'm not sure if the pepper is intended or not -- an earlier batch I had this season was not nearly so strong, relying more on the malt to carry the flavor.

Bottom Line: I like this beer well enough as an amber ale, but it doesn't quite fit the real Oktoberfest model (where the malt should dominate with a heavier body, even in ales).  Then again, just about any beer would suffer in comparison to the fresh Hacker-Schorr Oktoberfest I was enjoying last weekend at a German bar in NYC.

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Yet another hit-and-miss weiss... when will I ever learn?  Seriously, I'm about to swear off weissbiers unless I know I'm getting a "just born" bottle, preferably of a tall German persuasion with glassware to match.

Characteristics: Medium gold color with limited head (even after spinning the bottle), light carbonation, slightly chewy body (from the yeast) and lemony finish.

Minor Gripes: Without the yeast, this is a fairly bland beer.  And even with it, this is on the verge of dull. 

Bottom Line: Get it fresh and work all the yeast out of the bottom of the bottle, or don't drink it at all.

Rating: 4.75 / 10

I saw this at a restaurant in Milwaukee and had to sample it.  Smooth, low-key, fairly easy-drinking. Certified organic hops and barley is a plus, as is the gorgeous green glass flask (which I unfortunately neglected to photograph...).

Characteristics: Light gold and slightly cloudy, light-to-medium carbonation, light body, subtle nutty and oakey flavors, with a warm, round, and slightly bitter finish. 

Minor gripes:  The flavors were so subtle that garlicky food completely overpowered it.  Also, the body was so thin that it was hard to hold the beer in my mouth long enough to investigate some of the flavors.

Bottom Line:  Did I use the word "light" enough times in this review?  Certainly worth sampling, but not quite ready to be a regular part of my rotation (assuming I could find it in DC).

Rating: 5 / 10

I first found this beer (and brewery) when I lived in Madison, WI.  New Glarus is a Swiss-founded village about 40 miles south-southwest of Madison, nestled among rolling hills and golden-green fields.  The brewery makes 10-12 different brews in the course of a year, but Spotted Cow appears to have become their staple.

Characteristics: Cloudy gold, medium weight, average carbonation, smoky citrus flavors resolving to yeast.

Minor Gripes: Like its witbier brethren, Spotted Cow is inconsistent and ages poorly.  I've had some batches that tasted like lemon Alka-Seltzer, while others make Blue Moon look and taste like Busch Light.

Bottom Line:  When it's on, Spotted Cow is a phenomenal beer for those who like the Belgian wheat / wit style (as opposed to the German style).  When it's not on, you may as well use it to mop the floor.  It's just a tricky beer (but I keep coming back to it...).

Rating:  5.75 / 10 (docked .5 for inconsistency)

I first tried this beer about five years ago in a bar in the East Village. When I found it in a bar in Milwaukee about 4 months later, it was among the worst experiences I'd ever had -- and I was sad. I've tried a few since, and nothing has matched that first taste, but the widget can is FAR superior to the bottles.

Characteristics: Nitro-pour resolves to a reddish-gold with creamy head, light to medium body, tangy and slightly toasted malty flavors with a little caramel in the mix.

Minor Gripes: Inconsistency in the import market... both in the freshness factor and the misguided idea that both bottles and widgeted cans should be sold over here. Guinness learned its lesson nearly 10 years ago (switching to all widgets) -- hopefully Morland can afford to do the same.

Bottom Line: In my recent tour of English widgeted cans, Old Speckled Hen slots in between Tetley's and Boddington's / Wexford -- it's a little creamy, more flavorful than the yellow ales, but lacking the bitterness of the Tetley's. When it's on, this is a fantastic beverage.

Rating: 6 / 10 (when fresh and widgeted; deduct 1 full point if missing either)

Looks like a Sierra Nevada Pale, but with a taste that kicks American pales in the jewels. Fantastic beverage, even on a nasty hot humid evening when one might think only a proper Czech pilsner would do the trick. I definitely need to get across to England to compare this to their bitters.

Characteristics: Golden amber color, medium body, sharp carbonated start and caramel middle resolving to a slightly burnt bitterness.

Minor Gripes: The lack of hoppy bite before the bitter finish  might not work for all drinkers, especially those partial to American pale ales.

Bottom Line:  I'd like to see this in a widgeted / nitrogenated pour to compare to the Tetley's.  Since that's not the intent of the brewer, however, I can only say that this is a great change of pace from the hop-fest that dominates so much of American microbrewing.

Rating: 6.75 / 10

Technorati: Bitter, Ale, Rogue, Oregon

"America's Original Blueberry Ale" is luckily a purist (of sorts).  Instead of going sugary and blue-tinged, this ale goes for the tangy side and a residual reddish color.  The result is interesting, if not entirely successful.

Characteristics: Amber color, lightly carbonated, light to medium body, tastes like a red ale but with a blueberry tangy tart kick toward the finish.

Minor Gripes: The amber and blueberry don't always match up, sometimes leading to a strange aftertaste that runs toward alcohol instead of blueberry.

Bottom Line: Not the fruity beer I feared, but not necessarily one I'd hoped for either.

Rating: 5 / 10

Technorati: Blueberry, Bar Harbor, Maine, Ale

The widgeted can proclaims that Tetley's is "Yorkshire's Finest Pub Ale" -- if so, then I'm thinking that the tastebuds are a little different up that way ... though it does explain a little something about musical heroes like David Gedge or the current crop of madness coming out of Sheffield.  Tetley's looks and pours like a Boddington, but trades the clean taste for an earthy bitterness.

Characteristics: Amber-gold color emerges from nitrogenated widget pour, with a nice persistent head; light-to-medium body, smooth but strong  opening resolves into slightly malty bitterness (as opposed to a hoppy bite).

Minor Gripes: The bitter edge gets a little sweet as the beer warms, and the overall flavor profile can run a little chalky.

Bottom Line: If this is a true English bitter, then sign me up for additional samples.  (This site gets lots of search hits for "boddington's bitter" -- not the first identification I'd use.)  It's not yet my idea of an everyday beer, but certainly could be (especially if I was tasting it relatively fresh with a properly pulled pint).

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Technorati: Tetley's, Leeds, Yorkshire, Bitter, Ale